Nutter Fort HDJ Review - F.O.P Mountaineer Lodge – by Big Daddy

Lodge #78 of the Fraternal Order of Police opened not all that long ago at the former Jim Reid’s restaurant in Nutter Fort. Jim Reid’s always served up great food in a fine dining atmosphere. I didn’t really pay much attention when the F.O.P. bought the place, thinking it would just be another club that I’d never step foot in or care about.

Word had recently started circulating around town that the organization had opened up a public restaurant and lounge, and supposedly one or more of the original chefs from Jim Reid’s had been hired. There was no doubt that some good, 100% home cooking would once again be available for one and all: some terrific surf and turf, Italian specialties, all day breakfasts, and much more.

I was really surprised by all the suggestions that I try the hot dogs at the F.O.P. With nothing to lose, I went in one day to give it a try. After getting seated, I took some time to read through the rather lengthy menu. Hot dogs are listed for eighty-five cents, but that only includes relish, mustard and ketchup. Slaw and chili are fifty cents more. In the end, I found this was a bargain considering how good the dogs were.

It was a little busy on one particular visit, and I wound up waiting close to twenty minutes. My patience was rewarded though. The hot dogs are grilled to perfection, as is the split-top New England Style bun that it comes on. And to be served on a real plate with a dill pickle? Nice! The chili is stupendous, with just the right consistency of not being too thick yet smooth enough to gently seep into the bun without making it soggy. The flavor should be to the liking of just about anyone, as it has a nice hint of spiciness, but not overpowering heat. I made a point to spoon some of it off of the dog so I could enjoy it on its own. This may very well be one of the best chili sauces around.

The cabbage in the slaw was very coarse…maybe too coarse. I’m sure it’s only intended to be served in a standalone mode, but it does the job in the case of topping the dog. It was sweet and not too tangy, cool, extra creamy, and full of flavor. It’s worth buying some as a side order for just about any meal, should you get the urge.

I have to go with four weenies here. These dogs are well worth the wait, and the restaurant is one place you can be assured will always have something for everyone.

The View From Behind the Hot Dog Counter

So, I get drafted by the Band Boosters of the high school where my daughter is in the band to volunteer in the concession stand at Laidley Field for the Kanawha County Band and Majorette Festival. I arrive at five o'clock having absolutely no idea of what I'll be doing but in possession of a willing spirit to perform the most menial and demeaning task for the next five to six hours. My enthusiasm was dampened greatly when I walked behind the counter and found the calzone oven, deep fryers, hot tables and bun steamers made the temperature hover at about 115 degrees with 110% relative humidity. I was determined though, that I would persevere.

So I offered myself up in service to the person who seemed to be in charge. I told her I was completely inexperienced but a quick learner and I would be glad to scrub floors, clean out the grease traps - you know, the kind of stuff this guy does. The boss puts her finger on her chin in a thoughtful "hmmm" kind of way and then with eyes full of hope she asks, "Do you know anything about hot dogs?"

"Yes", I told her trying to hide my smile of conceit, "I know a little about hot dogs." To myself I thought "Ha! Little do these mortals know!"

And thus began my journey into the hot, sweaty, greasy world of hot dog slinging at the concession stand.

Now before you little league parents get all high and mighty and say that you know concession stand work, let me tell you that the Majorette Festival is a doggone big deal in Charleston and there are probably 12,000 people in attendance. All of them came to the concession stand at least once, I am convinced. Most, it seemed, ordered hot dogs. In large quantities.

Now the process of assembling hot dogs is fairly simple: Load the buns in the steamer, take them out and put on the weenie, apply the toppings and put them in the hot table bins as appropriate. There are five models of hot dogs at Laidley: Everything (chili, slaw and onions), Chili and Slaw, Chili and Onions, just Chili and, finally, Plain. The people who work the front counter are supposed to take orders for only those combinations with no special orders. This isn't Burger King: Special orders DO upset us.

In addition to assembly, the hot dog team also has to keep a good supply of chil and weenies on the stove at all times, lest you run out and be lynched by the starving mob.

Our two-person hot dog team worked feverishly all night to keep an adequate supply of all of the various combinations on the hot table bins, but sometimes it was like bailing out a leaky boat with a tea strainer. An endless stream of humanity flowed through the concession stand entrance. Their methods were devious yet simple: They would eye the available hot dogs in the bin (which are clearly visible from the ordering area), pick out the category with the fewest number of hot dogs and order a half-dozen of that type. If the hot dog team was ever in danger of satisfying the demand of any supply point, a special operative was immediately dispatched to place a special order for a hot dog with slaw only, or onions only, or some other non-standard configuration that made the entire assembly line screech to a halt while the primadona's special needs were addressed. Once the special was passed to the front, the work of re-supplying the bins began again.

And again. And again. For five hours. Over 500 hot dogs. I really don't know how many we made because I simply lost count after about 480, a milestone that was passed about halfway through the evening. The total might have been closer to a thousand, I really don't know: I was in The Zone.

After a while I entered a transcendent state where my brain just switched off and muscle memory took over and I began to make hot dogs like a robot. The only time my trance was broken was when I reached for onions and found that someone had moved the onion container to the prep area where it was being loaded with a new supply of fresh chopped stuff. After that it took me a few minutes to find The Zone again but once I was there it lasted throughout the night until that glorious moment when the doors to the concession stand were closed for the evening. After an hour or so of cleaning up, my sentence was over and I was released from my bondage.

Now I'd like to say that my evening on the other side of the counter has made me more understanding as to the plight of the Weenie Workers of America. I'd like to tell you that I'm going to be a kinder, gentler Weenie Wonk as a result of walking a mile in the shoes of a Weenieista. But the truth is, I found out that even in the midst of crushing crowds that far exceed what a typical HDJ experiences on the busiest of lunch hours, there is still time to create a hot dog with care. So there will be no excuses accepted in the future for sloppily prepared hot dogs. You have been warned.

A word about the ingredients they serve at the Laidley concession stand:

Custard Stand Chili - OK, as a good West Virginian I should support this state success story. But it's just OK. It's not great.

Gunnoe's Slaw - Huge, hard chunks of cabbage and other cabbage-like substances. Not very good.

Weenies - Generic Food Service.

Buns - There was no name on the packaging, but I assume they were Heiners. They insist on steaming them at Laidley, which is a good thing.

Huntington Area Updates

Here are some hot dog updates from in and around the Jewel City:

• Chili Fest: One of the chili vendors (can't remember who) thought it would be a good idea to put their chili on hot dogs and consider them to be a delicacy. They were wrong. The buns were dry as the Sahara, the weenies of a low quality, and they were served at a temperature that would make an English ale proud. The chili, a soupy collection of broth, tomato chunks, and some beef, proved exactly why we in the Tri State call is "sauce." The lack of slaw, onions, or mustard made it only the second hot dog I've thrown away half-eaten in over a year. You can read more on my lukewarm reactio to Chili Fest here.
• After a WVHotDogs.com corporate event, the Sam's Hot Dog Stand in Teays Valley is lowered, as predicted, from 4.5 to 3.5 weenies. They have proven unable to keep dumping 2x the sauce on their dogs (which was probably straining the bottom line) and, according to Big Daddy, their non-crinkle cut fries are muy crappy. Don't get me wrong, this is still a good Sam's and a good WV HDJ, just not one of the greats.
• Due to my work schedule, there are a few area joints that are only open during the day on weekdays that I can't seem to get to. I have, therefore, drafted a friend to do some of the reviews of these places (Bowinkles, some of the downtown sandwich shops, etc). Keep an eye out for her in the coming weeks and make her feel at home.
• If you haven't made it there yet, be sure to get a dog and some ice cream at Austin's in Ceredo. They close up shop sometime in early-to-mid fall, thereby depriving Huntington of their award-wining slaw 'til late spring.

Paul Blogs Charleston's Finest HDJs

In July our fair city was paid a visit by hot dog royalty: Paul, of "I am an American and I eat Hot Dogs" fame came to town with his band "Harry and the Potters" for a show and he (and a few of his band mates) and I met for a couple of hot dogs. We went to Romeo's and Skeenie's and I think our humble home town dogs impressed the hot dog master.

You can read his reviews here and here. Pay close attention to the look on Paul's face as he gets his first taste of a real WVHD at Romeo's. He was in hot dog Almost Heaven!

Cedar Grove HDJ Review - Video Village

We would have never, ever found this little HDJ if a reader hadn't emailed us.

In the out of the way town of Cedar Grove, inside an obscure little storefront attached to the Exxon station, in the back of the video rental section of the store, there is a food counter where you can order typical roadside fast food items like pizza, hot dogs, cheese poppers and hot dogs. I was told that this place had good hot dogs, but when I walked in I was skeptical. I nearly walked out because it didn't look like there was any food service inside. Then I saw the video section and remembered that the reader had said the place was called "Video Village" so I walked into the video rental area. There I found the food.

Ordering one with everything (I had to specify "no ketchup") I took my dog to my car before unwrapping it. I was still skeptical about the quality of hot dogs that this little out of the way place might serve. To say my expectations were low is an understatement.

Unwrapping the dog buoyed my hopes momentarily, as the hot dog was topped with a large helping of gorgeous looking slaw. But then, sticking out from under the toppings, I saw one of the teeniest weenies I had ever seen on a real hot dog. It was so small in diameter that it looked like a mistake. My low expectations returned.

But to my surprise, in spite of the teeny weenie, the hot dog actually tasted pretty darn good! The chili had a good texture and a complex taste - a little spicy, a little tart. The slaw was sweet; just about as sweet as any I have ever tasted, and perfect in consistency. The chili and slaw worked well together and made me forget all about the teeny weenie, momentarily. I wondered what the little thing tasted like so I tried a taste independent of the toppings. It tasted fine. It was just little.

Now I guess it could be argued that having such a small weenie allows more room in the bun for toppings, and if you have good toppings then it can certainly offset the lack of a substantial sausage. But there is something kind of disturbing to see a weenie that small on a WVHD, so we'll deduct points for the shortcoming.

The Video Village, that little hidden hot dog joint that could, overcomes it's hiddeness and it's teeny weenie to score a 4 Weenie rating. With a suitable sized weenie it would have been a 4.5.

Clarksburg HDJ Review - Tubby's Cafe

Once in a great while you're fortunate enough to discover a unique place totally by accident that, much like a rare artifact, becomes a gem that you enjoy so much you have to share it with others. Enter Tubby's Cafe in Clarksburg.

I was driving through the Summit Park section of Clarksburg just below old Bridgeport Hill Road when I saw a small sign for Tubby's mounted on a street sign at an intersection. Curious, I hung a left where I normally turn right. A hundred feet later, I discovered an amazingly good restaurant in a hard-to-find section of town. Tubby's is built on to the back of an inviting little private residence on Factory Street. Though the parking is tight, it's certainly worth getting to.

Once inside, I was immediately taken by the Harley- Davidson motif that adorns nearly every nook and cranny of the restaurant, save for a Dale Earnhardt, Jr. standee, a replica hood from the #3 car of Dale Sr., and a drag racing "Christmas Tree". The entire place is done in H-D black and orange, and highlighted with diamond plate trim. The counter area is adorned in the diamond plating, from the top of the counter down to the foot rests. My co-workers who ventured along on this particular visit got a kick out of the blinking yellow "caution" light that was activated when one went to the restroom and locked the door. I also noted a handle grip/brake handle assembly on the beer taps. My friends commented on how shiny and clean this establishment was. Attention to detail was certainly at the forefront of the proprietor's mind. This is one of those places that would put a grin on even the most grumpy curmudgeon on a dreary day. This wasn't a bar by any means...this is a restaurant through and through. I spoke with the owner, who noted that while the location was a bit of a hindrance he hoped to move to a better location sometime in the future.

Tubby's has an awesome menu that offers daily specials, Italian pasta fare, huge salads, hoagies (which all in attendance agreed were some of the best ever to be had), sandwiches, burgers, authentic brick oven pizzas (baked in the wood-fired brick oven that burns all day and night, regardless of the temperature outside), and of course hot dogs. The dogs are listed on the menu as follows: "Served hot off the grill in a steamed bun topped with Tubby's memorable chili, mustard, and onions...$1.25".

Memorable my foot! What an understatement.

This chili might darn well represent a high point for preparation and ingredients in this region. I think one of my co-workers said it best when he noted that it was "just a hair spicy". That may indeed be the best description for it. The chili had a perfect coloring and aroma, and a taste that epitomized 'balance' as the meaty flavor and spiciness worked together rather than overrun one another. It wasn't too complex, but rather complimented the overall hot dog. There was an abundance of chopped onions to give some extra zing to each bite, but not upset the overall presentation. In case there wasn't enough zest for you, take heart that you have your choice of no less than seven different bottled hot sauces, plus red pepper flakes and chili powder available at the counter.

Another plus was that every component of the hot dog is prepped on order (as is everything on the menu). The wieners are grilled on order, versus boiled in a batch and put on standby. I'm always a fan of grilled wieners when they're available; it seems they add some intangible element that you can't get from just boiling. The buns were steamed right as the wieners were being prepared, making for a superior, freshly steamed taste. I'd suspect that if you wanted the buns steamed more (or less), you could get it as you like it upon request.

The service here can't be beat. The owners are front and center doing the food prep, and they're always up for a conversation on just about anything. I found them very personable, and genuine...a quality that anyone can appreciate.

There was one -and only one- drawback to the whole visit: no slaw. I was informed that at one point it was an option, but later taken off the menu since there weren't enough requests for it. That's a shame, as I'm sure it had the potential to be pretty good. I think a good slaw would put these hot dogs over the top. Based on that, I have to score 4.5 weenies for Tubby's. If a decent slaw is ever offered again, I believe it'll score an easy five weenies.

Gauley Bridge HDJ Review - Sam's Hot Dog Stand

I stand corrected. I erred when I said that the Marmet Sam's was the chain's most eastward location. An alert reader sent the tip that there is a Sam's located inside the Sunoco station in Gauley Bridge and that they had excellent hot dogs with a view. I thought it sounded like a worthwhile place to check out, so my wife and I set out on the 80-some mile round trip up Rt. 60 to the confluence of the New and Gauley Rivers. A hundred yards upstream from said confluence, on the bank of the New sits the Sam's location we sought.

An interesting mix of convenience and inconvenience, the Sunoco station has inside a convenience store, a Subway and a Sam's. Convenient because it's all under one roof, but when you order your food you have backtrack to the front door checkout to pay, then back to the counter for your food. The process seems a little customer un-friendly, but the personnel were friendly. We soon had our hot dogs and settled into a booth with an amazing view of the New River (the irony, which I will point out for those non-local readers , is that the "New" considered to be the oldest river in the world). There is also an outside deck where you can dine alfresco, but the heat kept us inside.

Despite the view, the hot dogs were pretty much standard Sam's fare. Good chili and mediocre slaw. Missing from this location were the waterlogged weenies I am used to finding at Sam's. I did not witness how they keep their weenies warm because I was off to pay for my meal on the other side of the store, but I'm betting it was some type of dry heat and not a hot bath.

Overall the quality was on the low side for a Sam's: 3.5 Weenies.

Fairmont HDJ Review - Lupo’s

Lupo’s recently moved from it’s downtown Fairmont location (which was, ironically, a block away from the more well-known Yann’s) to a location on Route 250 not far from the Taylor/Marion County line. One would have to question the move, since it puts the business out of reach of downtown pedestrian customers and into competition with two other notable HDJs (Hank’s Deli and Hometown Hot Dogs). Sources say the move was mostly made so that the new location could also run a Hot Spot Lounge.

Indeed, the new building sitting alone on Route 250 does feature a prominent Hot Spot sign on the front. When you walk through the door, you really can’t tell if you’re walking into a hot dog joint or a coffee house. New bar stools line the counter, and a leather sofa with glass coffee table sits nestled in a nearby corner. The video gambling room is off to the right behind closed doors. The owners are very personable and down to earth.

But the main reason for the visit, of course, is for the dogs. Lupo's is one of the few places in the area that still has it's hot dogs mentioned in the same context as the famous Yann's (depending on who you talk to), which would say something about their staying power. At $1.00 a pop, the price is nothing to complain about. A standard hot dog with everything here consists of onions, chili, and mustard. Unfortunately, we’re north of the 'slaw line' here, so Marion County laws are in effect: no slaw available. The gentleman who took my order used great care when putting my hot dogs together. I thought it was a nice touch that mustard was spread on the insides of the bun with a knife rather than just being squirted from a plastic bottle.

When I unwrapped the hot dogs, I was surprised by how scrawny they appeared. Take a look at the picture and judge for yourself. There was a heavy, doughy taste to the buns for some reason that made them taste rather blah. Or should I say, “blah to the negative power“. It kind of took away from the overall enjoyment of each bite. The flavor of the chili, however, really stood out. It had all the biting spiciness of northern WV chili, plus a little extra kick that invoked the sensation of Novocain. For some reason, I found that to be a guilty pleasure. Although the ground beef in the chili had a good flavor, it was somewhat sparse, making the sauce itself thin and watery.

Overall, Lupo’s rates three-and-a-half weenies. The hot dogs are good, but would be helped by a bit more beef in the sauce and perhaps the availability of slaw at least as an option.

A Requested Revisit - The Burger Carte in Smithers

While we first visited the Burger Carte last year, this classic old roadside HDJ changed ownership earlier this year and the new owners made contact with WVHotDogs.com and asked for a follow-up visit since they felt they had improved over the last proprietors. A bit risky, I thought, since the original review scored a very good Four and a Half Weenies. But I finally made it and I'm glad I did because there is a difference.

The difference is subtle. I think the slaw is just a little bit better tasting. It is nearly perfect in texture and they lay it on in a very generous measure. The chili is still good: It has nice complexity but lacks in spiciness. The biggest difference is that the hot dogs are now wrapped in wax paper instead of being served in a styro-coffin, and the bun is therefore steamed by the ingredients and is wonderfully soft.

Not enough of a difference to bump the score to a perfect Five Weenie, but an improvement nevertheless. One of the most authentic WHVDs you can buy along Rt. 60.

Lavalette Hot Dog Joint: Sam's Hot Dog Stand

In my 13 months as the Huntington/Tri State Weenie Wonk for WVHotDogs.com, I have come to realize that Sam's Hot Dog Stand makes my favorite sauce and, since in Huntington it's all about the sauce, also my favorite hot dog. While the locations on 8th St. and on Piedmont Ave have earned glowing reviews and Weenie Awards, neither was quite able to join M & M Dairy Bell or Hillbilly Hot Dog's Lesage location as Five Weenie HDJs (I tend to review hot dog stands as a whole, especially when comparing one Sam's franchise to another).

Unlike any of the other great (or even good) HDJs in Huntingtonland (we will excuse Johnny Dog, as he just has a push cart), Sam's only offer hot dogs of note. No fancy root beer (just cans of pop) or crinkle-cut fries (just bags of chips).

That is, until now.

Yup, Sam's of Lavalette (always one of the better Sam's locations) has recently added a deep fryer and now has crinkle cut fries and onion rings. You can even get chili-cheese fries made with their hot dog sauce (I just made myself hungry typing that, BTW).

So in addition to a well-dressed Sam's dawg (this one had lots of spicy sauce and a better-than usual slaw), I was able to get some freshly-fried crinklers.

Crinkle cut fries: the missing ingredient for a 5 weenie Sam's Hot Dog Stand.

Now if we can get 8th St. to install a deep fry vat...

Fairmont's HDJ Review - Woody's

There have been numerous recommendations coming across the desk at WVHotDogs.com for Woody's Restaurant in Fairmont, some of which were very detailed and specific about how good the hot dogs were. I was a little doubtful about that, on account of the fabled Marion County "No Slaw" law. However, one of the latest recommendations received confirmed that slaw was available as an option.

As luck would have it, Woody's is relatively easy to find as it is only a few blocks from exit 137 of I-79. The small building rests along the somewhat busy Morgantown Avenue in a building reminiscent of a classic small HDJ. The interior and the seating remind me very much of Ritzy Lunch in Clarksburg, only about 3/4 smaller. Our readers had pointed out that the place fills up fast, particularly at lunch, and I found this to be the case on this visit. The customers were a motley collection, ranging from college students in no particular hurry to get back to class, families, businessmen, utility workers, and a group of seniors seeming to have a daily get together. Each and every one was feasting on hot dogs and nothing else. There was a nifty collection of photos featuring sports icons and celebrities lining the wall across from the food prep area.

Although visibly busy, my waitress was friendly and took enough time to tell me about the selections available. Slaw runs an extra twenty cents, but I'd say about half the people I glanced at had it on their hot dogs. My order was prepared and delivered lickity-split, even though people were still filtering through the door and ordering anywhere from four to a dozen dogs at a time.

Upon receiving my order, I was pleasantly surprised at how generous the portion of slaw was. It was particularly creamy and sweet with nary a taste of vinegar. It mixed well with the (medium) chili, which had just the right amount of spiciness to remind me that it wasn't mild, but at the same time not cause any sort of discomfort. The complexity of the chili was darn near one of the best ones I've sampled in a while. It had just the right amount of meaty flavor, coupled with the right consistency of ground beef in a nicely browned sauce. What stuck out the most about this sauce was that it didn't have clumps of meat, but a generous spread that ensured delectable goodness in every bite. The buns were steamed well enough to allow the dressing of the slaw and sauce from the chili to seep in, but not cause them to fall apart.

The wiener tasted of the bulk restaurant fare type, but was boiled to an acceptable level and held it's own. Overall, these hot dogs met or beat a lot of my expectations. The service was good, even though with the overwhelming crowd it had all the potential to go south. Woody's Restaurant scores a 4.5 weenie rating.

Hinton Hot Dog Joint Review - Kirk's

I have eaten in this restaurant maybe six times over the years and each time it seems to have a different name. So when I got an email recently that suggested Kirk's for a review, I didn't know where I was going until I got there. But after getting there I realized this was same neat little riverside restaurant I had taken my kids to when they were small. I remember them feeding the ducks by dropping scraps of bread over the edge of the covered deck that extends out over the water's edge. This time, though, we were greeted by a sign that warned diners not to feed the ducks. No matter, because I didn't see any ducks this trip.

To eat on the deck, you must first go inside and place your order at the counter with one of the delightful order-takers and then they deliver your order to your table. The service we had on the evening we were there was just over-the-top friendly and attentive.

Obviously it is a Hinton thing to pile chili on top of the coleslaw, because Kirk's hot dogs look just just like the ones down the street at the DQ (see that review for reasons why this is wrong). Kirk's, however, tastes a little saltier and zingier than DQ, but still very tame as hot dog goes.

The slaw was sweet and tasty. I only know this because my wife got a side order with her meal and I tasted a fork full. It was very good and went well with the tame chili.

If Kirk's has a downfall it is the weenie which was small caliber and grilled too long. I know it was grilled because it had marks where it was nearly burned in places. The over-cooking made the weenie tough and chewy.

Overall Kirk's hot dog is virtually the same as DQ - A little better chili and a little lesser weenie, but it nets out the same. Kirk's has as nice a dining area, at least during warmer weather. With this kind of parity I have no choice but to award the same score to Kirk's as I gave DQ. 4 Weenies.

Lavalette Hot Dog Joint: Hazlett's Triple H Drive Inn

Hazlett's Triple H Drive Inn is a roadside diner located just north of Lavalette on WV 152 (formerly US 52) and is a survivor of the days when restaurants were Mom 'n Pop joints owned by families and not by an MNC located in Columbus, Louisville, or Dubai. Everything about the place, from the architecture to the swinging doors (with a cash-only sign) to the lunch counter to the "no profanity" sign screams of authenticity. While I did get some dagger-stares from the locals, they were more of the "who the hell (oops, no profanity) heck is this?" variety than the "the sun better not set on your head here, buddy" sort and the service was fast and courteous.

I wish I could brag on the hot dogs from this greasy spoon as much as I can on the charming diner. I will say this, however: the cole slaw is nothing short of fantastic. It is creamy (but not running), sweet (but not sickeningly), finely chopped (but not over-diced), and had just the right touch of tang. I think it is already an early contender for a 08 Weenie Award for Huntington's Best Slaw (watch out, Austin's).

As for the rest of the dog, there is nothing terrible, but nothing special, either. They use a low grade weenie, even by the forgiving logic of WVHotDogs.com. The sauce is bland and served under the weenie (argh, again with this). The bun was fresh, but this is the expected default in these parts, so that doesn't earn them a cookie.

Basically, I ended up with a Frostop hot dog with really good slaw.

I would recommend Hazlett's to those that love Frostop dawgs but don't care for their slaw or for folks that want a slaw dog with no sauce, but for true WV hot dog sauce/chili connoisseurs, there are much better options.

Since their stellar slaw is on par with the 'Top's killer root beer, the atmosphere is equally neat as Frostop (although I suspect that, if the name is a clue, Hazlett's used to be a drive-in, too), and the hot dogs are equally so-so. I therefore am going to give Hazlett's the same score as Frostop: 3.5 weenies.

New Martinsville HDJ – Knowlton’s Chill ‘n Grill

On a recent trip to New Martinsville, I asked an old colleague where I could find some good hot dogs in the area. My colleague isn’t really a big fan of hot dogs like I am, but he mentioned a place he’d heard of from some of his buddies called Knowlton’s Chill ‘n Grill.

First, I'd like to give a little background history on Knowlton's, as given to WVHD.com by one of our readers who I will identify as "Mr. R". The Knowlton's family reportedly ran a Tasty Freeze in Friendly, WV for several years, offering up some tasty hot dogs featuring a "secret" hot dog sauce that was prepared by Mrs. Knowlton. Somewhere in the 70's or 80's, the place suddenly shut down. Rumor has it that at one point a famous ketchup manufacturer offered a large sum of money for the recipe, which was declined by Mrs. Knowlton.

Knowlton’s is easy to find, as it sits right along State Route 2 going through town. It is a remodeled building with a nice deck sporting several umbrella-covered tables for enjoying lunch or ice cream outside. The inside has a few small tables scattered about. The menu offers standard short-order items and Hershey’s brand ice cream.

The prices of the dogs are a little steep as a dog with chili, onions, mustard, and slaw going for $1.95. The service wasn’t overly friendly –though not rude- and I didn’t feel welcomed. I’m not saying I have to be personally greeted every time I hit the door, but at no time did the clerk taking my order make eye contact or thank me for my order (note: this also happened on a follow-up visit). Just one of those details I’m a stickler about when doing a review.

I ordered up two dogs with the standard WVHD contents and an order of fries…which turned out to be plain old store-bought crinkle cuts. I found the hot dogs themselves to be much too sweet for my spice-calloused taste buds. My friend commented first, saying he found them somewhat inedible due sweetness. (I didn’t pinpoint the base of the seemingly meatless sauce until a day or two later when I was in the grocery store and walked past cans of Manwich sauce. Yup, Manwich sauce.) I dissected my hot dog so I could try to get a visual on what else was in the sauce. I found a couple of kidney beans and bits of pickle relish.

The cabbage in the slaw was coarsely chopped while the dressing had a smooth, creamy consistency. It had a markedly sweet taste as well. I thought it was good enough that it would undoubtedly go well with a medium or hot chili/sauce. However, the sweetness of the slaw dressing is just too much to bear when combined with the sweet chili sauce. The buns had potential as they seemed to be warmed well enough, but a hint of staleness quickly squashed any hopes of salvaging something positive out of this experience.

I don’t think many -if any- WVHD fans will be happy with these dogs. This might be a good place to take the kids, but that’s where I’d draw the line. Based on the overly-sweet sauce/slaw combination and not-as-friendly-as-could-be service, I have to give Knowlton’s two-and-a-half weenies.

Charleston HDJ No Review - The Salty Weiner

It's not fair to review a HDJ before it has its sea legs, and so I won't be providing a review right now for Charleston's newest mobile hot dog stand, The Salty Weiner. I found their cart set up in Davis Park next to the band stand and had a couple of their hot dogs. I think they will do better with experience, but today they were struggling with the heat and the newness (this is their first week). The owners said they plan on staying put but they might move if business dictates. They sell BBQ on a bun, hot dogs and hope to offer hamburgers in the future.

I'll offer this advice to the new entrepreneurs:

1) Go for excellent ingredients. There is too much competition downtown to expect to make it on a decent hot dog, you need a great one.

2) Be dependable. Be where we can find you when we want you.

Good luck Salty Weiner dudes! The next time we visit will be for keeps, so be ready!

Fairmont HDJ Review - Mikey’s Snack Bar

Surprise! There’s more slaw in Marion County. Yes, there are some stones still left unturned in Fairmont, and Mikey’s Snack Bar is one of them.

Mikey’s is a small mom-and-pop sandwich shop nestled in the shopping plaza located on Country Club Road in Fairmont. The shop itself is actually part of a larger front split with the hair salon next door. Seven stools surround a small counter, and a couple of tables crammed in the far corner offer seating for about six more people. A menu of different sandwich items is offered in addition to hot dogs, and bottled drinks are the standard beverage choices.

The folks running the place are friendly enough and seemed happy that I asked for the slaw along with the customary WVHD toppings of mustard, chili, and onions. Peculiar (at least for HDJs north of Hinton) but in the preparation I observed that the chili was placed on top of the slaw. This was my first time seeing it prepared that way. My order was done up quickly and wrapped in a wax paper bag stuffed inside a brown paper bag. The price was more than fair at $1 even (including tax).

I guess one advantage to the having chili on top, particularly when it's as thick as it is at Mikey's, is that there is less spillage of the slaw. That worked out pretty well in this case. Still, I personally prefer the traditional preparation of slaw on top. I’d be willing to bet that it’s the lack of experience of putting any slaw at all on the dog that’s got Fairmont HDJs confused. But I digress.

The bun was warm, but needed to be steamed more. The wiener did not seem to completely fill the bun, but it was cooked well otherwise. The slaw was fresh and didn't have a overly-sweet taste. The dressing used in the slaw bought out the taste of the carrots that were scattered about. Overall, this slaw tasted fine, but did not do much to help the essence of the dog itself. The chili itself was quite underwhelming. It had absolutely no flavor to it at all, yet there was a noticeable watery taste in the ground beef. Mind you, the chili was thick enough and in no way runny. I didn’t see any chili powder or red pepper available at the counter to add to it, but it definitely needed some help.

Mikey’s isn’t bad at all. The hot dog quality here balances out as far as positives and negatives go, but a bit more emphasis on the chili and slaw ingredients would make for a better WVHD. The service is fast and friendly, and small size of the shop is an inviting place to enjoy lunch. Three weenies for Mikey's Snack Bar.

Let's Talk Buns, Shall We?

Huntington Weenie Wonk Chris James made the observation in one of his reviews that the essence of a West Virginia Hot Dog is taking really cheap ingredients and making them taste great. I couldn't agree more. And although he was writing about weenies when he said that, I think the same thing applies to the bun the weenie sits in.

Lately we have had a run of HDJs that serve their hot dogs on so-called "English Buns"; those split-top buns that are grilled in butter or toasted until they have a crunchy crust. These buns are especially prevalent in Dairy Queens in our area.

These buns add a lot of bulk to a hot dog, and a lot of calories. When they are grilled in butter they take on a "comfort food" feel usually reserved for Blue Plate Special meat and potato entrees. The bun by itself could be a small meal.

But is an "English Bun" a fitting vessel for real West Virginia Hot Dog? I don't think so, and here's why:

Hello!? It's called an "English" Bun - How can something that claims to be authentically Appalachian have a major component that is completely foreign? But let's be technically correct, though, the English Bun is not English at all. How do I know? I asked the foremost authority on hot dogs in England, Scoffer, who runs the "Sausage and Bread Blog" based in London (not the one just downstream from Montgomery). I sent Scoffer a photo of hot dogs on what we call and English Bun and he said he'd never seen anything that looked like that in jolly old England.

OK, you say, then if it's not from England then it's not foreign. But wait! The crack research team here at WVHotDogs.com has found that "English Bun" is just a corruption of the actual name, "New England Split Top Bun." Trust me, New England is just as foreign to Appalachia as is Old England.

Additionally, we found out that New England Split Top Buns were first made not for hot dogs, but for lobster roll sandwiches. Apparently, that is still their major use in New England. In fact I couldn't find a single hot dog joint web site in New England that uses these buns for hot dogs!

So why, then, should we accept them on a real West Virginia Hot Dog? We shouldn't.

A "real" WVHD is made on what is technically called a "Frankfurter Bun." These buns were made for exactly the purpose we use them for when we put a frankfurter, aka "weenie", on them.

It is standard practice here at WVHotDogs.com to deduct a half point from the Weenie Rating for any hot dog reviewed that is presented on a New England Lobster Roll Bun.

Just because.

Hinton Hot Dog Joint Review - Dairy Queen

We've been getting email from people who love the hot dogs at the Hinton Dairy Queen practically since WVHotDogs.com has been in existence. I've heard about the grilled New England Style buns and the crazy way they put the chili on top of the slaw. I've heard about the dining room with the great view of the New River and I've heard about the hordes of people who show up there for hot dogs. And after hearing this for so long, I finally got a chance to see for myself.

Now, it's not that I haven't eaten at this Dairy Queen before; I have. I have spent quite a bit of time in Hinton over the years beginning in about 1970 when Pipestem State Park was under construction and my dad's company was a sub-contractor on the project. I actually stayed for weeks on end at the Sandman Motel which sits right next door to the DQ. So I have eaten there many times, but not in the past few years and certainly not since I've been doing hot dog reviews.

But for those who haven't been there, let me tell you a little about it: The major feature of this DQ is the really nice two-tier dining room that looks out over the New River. The lower level is not more that ten feet above the water's surface and faces what could either be called a small rapid or a large riffle. Whatever it is, it gives diners a little bit of white water to look at while they eat (incidentally, just a few yards down the river is raft company outpost where you can embark on a pretty tame whitewater adventure on a stretch of river suitable for smaller kids). Upstream you can see the confluence of the New and the Greenbrier River, and just up the stream from there is the massive Bluestone Dam which holds back the waters of Bluestone Lake.

The New, in Hinton, is wide and shallow. It is not unusual to see hip-wader clad anglers in the middle of the river hunting smallmouth bass. The view across the river from the DQ is one of complete natural Wild Wonderful West Virginia, except for the McDonald's golden arches sign protruding up obscenely from behind the tree line and a lone cell phone tower on top of the high ridge beyond the riverbank.

With its view of the river, trees and mountains this little dining room rivals any I have seen for sheer atmosphere. A full size fireplace at one end of the room belies the fact that this is a fast-food joint. You might expect to be served by a tuxedo-clad waiter in such a aesthetically pleasing place as this.

Ordering your food, though, will quickly bring you back to reality. One must speak one's order through a window to one of about five or six cute teenage girls who busily scurry about the back and call the order numbers out to the waiting patrons. Mine was number 171.

The first thing I noticed as soon as I pulled the dog out of it's wrapping was the aforementioned upside-down chili presentation. I had been warned, but seeing it in real life was a bit disturbing. I quote from the National Hot Dog and Sausage Council's Hot Dog Ettiquette web page:

Condiments should be applied in the following order: wet condiments like mustard and chili are applied first, followed by chunky condiments like relish, onions and sauerkraut...

...and I will add, coleslaw.

Putting hot chili on top of cool slaw means you have cool chili and hot coleslaw. This is an abomination.

But I got over it.

One good thing that comes of the upside down presentation is it gave me a chance to really taste the chili with no interference from mustard or slaw. So I can tell you exactly what it tastes like. It tastes exactly like ground beef. Exactly. Nothing else, just ground beef. My wife said she tasted a hint of chili powder, but I'm not so sure that wasn't just the power of suggestion: It is called "chili" after all. The texture of the chili was nearly perfect, but the taste was simply beefy. Not that it wasn't good, mind you, but it lacked flavors you'd expect to find in hot dog chili.

But as accessible as was the chili, the hidden slaw was as difficult to isolate for a proper taste sampling. What I could taste seemed very good, but a little chunky maybe.

The grilled New England Style bun was tasty and satisfying, but we know the place of New England Style buns in the West Virginia hot dog world, don't we? They're kind of like Grandma's good china: a good change of pace, but not for everyday use.

Coming up with a Weenie Rating for this HDJ was not easy. I had the whole drive back to Charleston to mull it over and still am not completely satisfied, but here it is: Starting with 3 Weenies, just on the merits of the dog, and adding a half point for atmosphere isn't quite enough. At least a quarter point is demanded by the overwhelming support of its fans. We'll round it up to 4 Weenies.

I know this is going to disappoint a bunch of loyal supporters who have repeatedly emailed trying to get us to Hinton. But this hot dog lacks anything really special like over the top great chili or amazing slaw that would put it into the upper echelon of WVHDs. Except for the upside down presentation there is nothing extraordinary about this hot dog.

Clarksburg HDJ Review - Worlds Collide at A&W

The A&W at the Eastpointe shopping center in Clarksburg is actually a combination A&W and Long John Silver’s restaurant. Both are brands of Yum! Brands Incorporated, the company that also owns the KFC, Pizza Hut, and Taco Bell. Yes, this is a review of a corporate chain. No, this isn’t going to be pretty for a lot of reasons.

To put it simply: don’t expect the soul you’d get from the better reviewed HDJs on WVHotDogs.com. If you can’t figure that out before you get there, take one look at the menu board and you’ll know that if you’re after hot dogs you’re in the wrong place. Chicken planks? Fish fillets? Crappy fries with vinegar? ‘Nuff said.

Just like a bad one night stand, the review of the hot dog offering is something I’ll long regret. Not actually writing the review, mind you, but rather the suffering that had to be endured for the case study. The “Coney Dog”, as it’s called, is the closest you’ll get to a WVHD. I was asked if I wanted it “as it comes”, which was with chili, onions, and mustard. I went along, and scanned the board for some cole slaw which I found listed on the Long John Silver’s side of the menu. At $1.09 for a small helping, it was too steep for some really crappy slaw. More on that shortly.

When my order was delivered by a rather confused teen who looked like he couldn’t tell if my order number was 98 or 86, it came in the dreaded stryo coffin. The slaw was leaking over the edges of its little container. I opened up the coffin and was promptly under whelmed by the barely warm bun. I reckon the bun was actually warmed by heat of the wiener itself rather than having been in a warmer of any kind. The wiener had a passable beefy flavor, but not much more than that. The onions were transparent, which tells me they were in no way freshly cut. The chili had a meaty flavor, but was otherwise very bland. Its dark brown color doesn’t speak of being overcooked, but rather of artificial color.

As for the slaw, like I mentioned before it's actually Long John Silver's slaw. LJS slaw is runny, runny, and more runny. It's way too sweet for any hot dog, and loaded with carrots. Nothing redeeming about it.

I noticed that on the styro coffin there was a slogan reading “The Coney Dog Preservation Society”. Typically corporate….selling out the legend of a wonderful hot dog. It’s safe to bet the originators of the Coney Dog are rolling over in their graves.

If I can give one bright spot to this place, it would only be the frosty mugs that are offered up for all the A&W root beer you can drink. Sadly, even their namesake beverage cannot make their hot dogs bearable. One weenie.

2007 Weenie Awards Huntington Winners Gallery

Here are photos of all four winners of 2007 Weenie Awards in the Huntington area accepting their awards:

Austin's Home-Made Ice-Cream (Ceredo), Best Slaw

Sam's Hot Dog Stand (Piedmont Rd.), Best Sauce

M and M Dairy Bell (Chesapeake), Best Hot Dog Joint

Sam's Hot Dog Stand (8th St.), Best Hot Dog

Congratulations again to all Tri State Winners.