Charleston HDJ Review - Sam's Hot Dogs - Randolph Street

We reviewed this convenience store location of Sam's when it first opened in 2008, actually on it's very first day in business. We found the hot dogs and service to be sub par on that day, but realizing that it's not fair to judge a place before it has its sea legs, we made a promise to come back. We didn't mean to wait seven years.

But seven years it is, and when we returned today here are the differences that we found:

1. They weren't as busy.
2. They no longer use coffins for their hot dogs.

Other than that, the experience was exactly the same as in 2008. Chunky slaw. 3 1/2 Weenies.

The only thing that made this visit remarkable was that we broadcast the review live on Periscope (now if you don't know what Periscope is, do not feel alone because approximately 99.8% of the world's population is just as clueless, but you can read more here). It was our first Periscope review (it won't be our last) and we learned a few lessons.

West Virginia Slaw War Museum

In 1921, there began in West Virginia a battle that pitted brother against brother and North against South; blood relatives railed against each other's deep-seeded beliefs and family traditions. Decades later the scars of this battle are still visible and divide this great state. A clear victor has been established in this fight, and yet citizens of a certain area of the state stubbornly hold to the old ways and will not allow defeat to be acknowledged.

Of course, I am talking about the great Slaw War of West Virginia that began when the Stopette Drive In on Rt. 21 near Charleston began putting coleslaw on top of their popular chili dogs and started a food revolution that soon swept the entire state. Well, almost the entire state. Marion County, along with certain factions from Harrison County resisted the slaw advance and set the scene for The War.

A new museum has opened in Jane Lew, just a few miles south of the front lines of The War, that hopes to enlighten people on the ways in which this rift has affected people in North Central West Virginia. The Slaw War Museum is owned and run by Flora Olips, a former school cook for Marion County Schools. Flora is determined to help people on both sides of the issue come to an understanding. She was kind enough to sit down with us for a recorded interview. We hope to have the full audio version posted soon, but here are some highlights of our chat:

West Virginia Hot Dog Blog: Flora, when did you first get the idea for this museum?

Flora Olips: I've been wanting to do it since 1967. That's when my grandfather died. He was the one who told me about The War.

WVHDB: Was he affected by The War?

Flora: Oh Heavens, yes. He drove a truck for Heiners Bakery and he used to have to make the run from Huntington to Morgantown. He used to tell me how some Marion County restaurants wouldn't take buns from a open tray because they didn't want to use the same ones that places that served slaw used.

WVHDB: That sounds a little crazy...

Flora: Crazy? O mercy, that's exactly the kind of talk I'm trying to discourage here. It's just a different way of thinking. It might be hard for you to understand, but it's real to those who believe it.

WVHDB: So, which side are you on, Flora? Are you for slaw or against it?

Flora: Hah! If it were only that simple!

WVHDB: What do you mean? I just want to know if you like slaw on your personal hot dogs or not.

Flora: No, you asked whether I am for slaw or agin' it. That's what is complicated. As for what I eat on my own hot dogs, well, it depends on where I am and who I am with.

WVHDB: You mean, you swing both ways?

Flora: In a manner of speaking. I would never walk into Russell Yann's place [Yann's Hot Dogs in Fairmont] and ask for slaw, but if I am in Charleston or Logan, I love me a big helping of cool creamy slaw on my dog.

WVHDB: So you're attitude is kinda 'when in Rome?'

Flora: Exactly. I believe strongly in a person's right to choose.

Flora gave us the full tour of the museum that included photos of seemingly every hot dog sold by West Virginia vendors, showing the variations in presentation and styles. She had secret chili recipes from some of the great hot dog joints of the past, and iconic hot dog memorabilia such as the 1950s era Sunbeam Bun Steamer from Romeo's Grill in South Charleston. Just seeing these artifacts made my mouth water thinking of the delicious hot dogs they used to sell.

Alas, Flora doesn't allow photos in the museum so you will have to check it out yourself. The museum is located on Flair Pools Road just south of the Jane Lew Exit of I79. Open only one day per year, on April 1.

And speaking of museums, make sure that you visit the West Virginia Mine War Museum  that opens on May 16th in Matewan.

Charleston HDJ Review - Suppers to Go / Stuck's Hot Dogs

When Facebook user Ranson J Stuck nagged us to check out the hot dogs at "Suppers to Go" on Bigley Avenue, we first thought he meant this place but soon found out that there were indeed two different carry-out dining places just a few blocks apart on the same street. So after trying the other place's mediocre hot dogs we were hopeful that these would turn out better.

The place is small and clean, and you can see everything being prepared from the ordering window. Service was fast and friendly the day I was there, and I had my order in no time at all. Peeking inside the bag as I left, I noticed that the dogs were wrapped in aluminum foil - a good sign.

Back at the office, I unwrapped the first hot dog and was greeted by a well-presented Utilitarian Dog, and the aroma of fresh cut slaw was unmistakable. Sampling a bit of slaw, I found it to be a nice texture and very sweet - much sweeter than is usually found in the Charleston area. Digging down to the chili, I noticed that it was not very spicy and had a bit of a ketchupy taste. Not bad, jut a hint.

My first real bite told me that some serious thought had gone into matching the slaw with the chili, as the combined tastes were definitely greater than the individual parts. I tasted onions, but they must have been finely minced because I could not see them at all.

The bun was the downfall of this hot dog, as it wasn't quite as soft as it should have been, especially after being wrapped up in foil during the ride back to the office. It didn't taste stale, though, and wasn't a big detriment to the overall product.

Suppers to Go certainly delivered on having a good hot dog. It's not great - not the best in town - but it is certainly one of the best. I'm going to go 4 Weenies; softer buns might have bumped it it to a 4 1/2, but it's still a good hot dog in a very convenient location.

Based on the quality of the hot dog I am looking forward to going back and picking up dinner some evening.

Charleston HDJ Review: Hot Dogs to Go at The Corner Kitchen

(OK, I have a confession: When Facebook user Ranson J Stuck nagged me to try the hot dogs at a place called "Suppers to Go", I thought he meant this place. And who could blame me? Who would imagine that there could be two take-out dinner places within a few blocks of each other in a remote corner of Charleston? Don't worry, Ranson, I'll get to your place soon enough.)

I had eaten before at The Corner Kitchen; or I should say that I had eaten from the Corner Kitchen since it is a carry out-only place that got its start selling packaged dinners to go of what they bill as "home cooked" food. I had only eaten there twice before and thought the food was passable, but not remarkable, and so I figured that the hot dogs would be about the same quality.

The first bad omen was when I was told that "everything" included the dreaded red plague known as ketchup, along with the proper toppings chili, slaw, mustard and onions. After deleting this offensive offering from my order I paid my $4 for two hot dogs and waited on my order. In about the appropriate amount of time I received my two hot dogs that were double-packaged in styrofoam coffins sealed tightly with plastic wrap, which I guessed to be an extraordinary attempt at keeping the hot dogs warm and steamy on their ride home. This attempt failed: Even though my ride was less than 5 minutes, when I opened the hot dog packages they were somewhere between lukewarm and stone-cold.

Allow me to vent a moment about these damned coffins: They do not keep hot dogs warm. They are so thin that they provide no insulation value whatsoever. They do protect the dogs from being squished, but they present another problem because they will not sit upright in a bag or on a car seat, so anytime they go for a ride further than from the counter to a restaurant booth the potential is high for an upside down mess upon opening.

Sorry for the digression. Back to the hot dogs.

So when I pried open the coffins, before I even noticed that the hot dogs were tepid, I saw another bad omen: Large - nay, giant - chunks of onion. The chunks were so large that I felt that I needed to measure them like one would a trophy buck's antlers, so I broke out a measuring tape to document the enormity of them. Now after reviewing literally hundreds of hot dogs over the years, I have never once employed a measuring instrument during a review, but as they say, there is a first time for everything. The largest chunks were  1 3/4" long with most being in the 3/4" to one inch range. Very impressive, but not in a good way: Onions should be so finely chopped as to virtually disappear into the slaw.

Which brings us to the slaw: While the texture was pretty good, the taste was about as average as it could possibly be. Next item please.

Chili - OK, to call this substance chili (or even sauce for you Ohio Valley and North Central folks) would be wrong. It might aspire to be chili someday, but it was completely lacking in any spice or moisture. The meat was finely ground (like one might do if they were going to make a serious batch of hot dog chili) and was browned well (like one might do if they were going to make a serious batch of hot dog chili), but it has no discernible flavor other than meat and was so dry that it seemed to siphon liquid from the slaw. Taking a whole mouthful-sized bite of this dog caused me to immediately go for a glass of water just so I could make it go down the correct direction.

And yet for all of these problems, this hot dog wasn't completely bad. It did have a nicely soft bun and decent weight, volume and overall texture. The bland slaw and tasteless pseudo-chili actually sort of complimented each other, so the result was not terrible. It certainly did not taste like what a West Virginia Hot Dog should taste like, but as food stuff goes, it wasn't objectionable.

So we'll give The Corner Kitchen a 2.5 Weenie score.

Per reader request: Mumsey's Iron Skillet in Richwood.

When Stanton relayed to me that we had a request to review Mumsey's Iron Skillet in Richwood I was excited to check it out. I had eaten at Mumsey's several times, but had never tried their dogs.

      My hostess told me "everything" included slaw, chili, onions and mustard, which I took as a good sign. I ordered three dogs and waited.

     Mumsey's has this 1950s feel with its period-style tables, chairs and decor. There are, naturally, numerous cast-iron skillets on the walls. They have a very impressive collection of old glass soda bottles, many of them I remember from my youth. They have Upper 10 bottles. I hadn't even thought of Upper 10 in years. I stood in admiration of their amazing cakes - kept in a glass-windowed case. They were impressive - seven or eight layers in each cake. I picked up a newspaper and read about the latest happenings in Nicholas County. I had plenty of time to reflect upon the sodas of my youth and read a newspaper as it took a little over 10 minutes to receive my dog, but good dogs are worth waiting for. 

     When my dogs arrived, the genteel-looking dogs were individually packaged, They probably were more neatly constructed than pictured, as the dogs turned upside down while I was carrying them to my vehicle for private consumption.

    My first reaction as I opened the Styrofoam container for dog No. 1 wasn't positive. Visually, the dog had several things wrong with it. It was on a New-England-lobster-roll bun for a start, but my eyes were instantly drawn to the large carrot chunks. They were large and plentiful. 

    When I took my first bite, I was aghast, appalled and perplexed as how Mumsey's - otherwise a fairly good restaurant - could make such an abomination as this dog. The New England bun was grilled with butter and was, in fact, the only part of this dog that tasted good.

     The slaw was not creamy at all and long after the the rest of the bite was chewed and swallowed, the large chunks of carrots remained to be chewed and chewed. It was almost like eating carrots. They may as well just topped the dog with shredded carrots. 

   The dog was cold. There was a slight amount of warmth in the wiener and I mean slight. The chili was tomato-based and somewhat sweet. It may have been good if warm. 

   The wiener was slightly warm. It also had virtually no taste whatsoever. Who knows how long it had been standing in water? 

    I kept an open mind as I tackled the second dog. Same results. I threw the third dog away.

    With an over-boiled wiener, generally cold dog and slaw only a rabbit could love - I give this dog a two-weenie rating.

                                                                H.C.

London HDJ Review - Dogs on the Run

A couple of weeks ago, Weenie Wonk H.C. Paine mentioned that he had tried to catch this new HDJ open but had to settle for a Montgomery Dairy Queen hot dog instead (which didn't turn out so well for him). I too had had difficulties making my driving schedule line up with DOTR's business hours, but finally I made the connection and got to check out their offerings.

This little carryout sits on the side of the road along Route 60 in London, a community famous for its locks and dam on the Kanawha River and not much else. Recently though, two restaurants have sprung up along this short stretch of highway, DOTR and 'Dem 2 Brothers and a Grill, which sells ribs, chickens and other assorted soul food staples just a quarter mile down the road. While I don't expect London to become a foodie Mecca anytime soon, it does make one wonder how this little wide spot in the road suddenly became home to two eating establishments after having none for who knows how long. 

Anyway, Dogs on the Run, as its name implies, specializes in hot dogs and I was eager to find out if they were worth stopping for. It didn't take long to begin forming my impression after the very nice young lady on the other side of the ordering window told me that "everything" included chili, slaw, onions, mustard and ketchup: This is never a good sign. I, of course, ordered mine without ketchup and pretty soon I had my hot dog which looked scrumptious and felt good - the bun was nicely soft, and the coleslaw looked creamy and had the perfect consistency that slaw ought to have. There was a little bit of misplaced chili sitting on the bun, which gave me the opportunity to taste it independent of the other toppings: What I tasted was pretty good chili - not much spice, but a good texture and flavor. Looking more closely, I noticed a split and grilled weenie nestled in the bun. So at this point I was encouraged by what I saw, and despite the shaky and ketchupy start to my experience, I was eager to dig in and taste the assembled product.

And that's where the bottom dropped out - literally. The bun was perhaps a little too soft, or perhaps it was grease soaked from the grilled weenie, but when it was picked up from the styrofoam coffin the weenie just started to fall through the bottom. But that was only the first problem.

The good-flavored chili was no match for the completely flavorless slaw. This concoction, seemingly made from cabbage and mayo with no other ingredients involved, was so bland that it soaked up the otherwise appealing flavor of the chili and that flavors that should be present in the carefully grilled weenie.

The result was a most unsatisfying hot dog experience and a 2 Weenie rating. Route 60 travelers would be much better off stopping of at Burger Carte in Smithers, just a few miles east.

Charleston HDJ Review - Bammy's Chili Dogs

Let's take a little trip through the annals of the WV Hot Dog Blog, shall we?

Many years ago we reviewed Shaar's Bar and Grill and while we liked the location and the overall ambiance of the place (cigarette smoke notwithstanding), the hot dogs they served were sad. Worse than sad, actually; they were disgusting.

Then, just a couple of years ago, we reviewed Sammy's Chili Dogs (which later changed its name to "Bammy's") at its original location near the corner of West Mains Street and Coal River Road in St. Albans. Their hot dogs were good. Better than good, actually; they were great.

So recently when I heard an advertisement on a Charleston radio station for a new Hot Dog Joint opening up at 829 Central Avenue on Charleston's West Side, my ears perked up. My perky ears were rewarded when I heard this new HDJ bragging that they had been highly reviewed by the West Virginia Hot Dog Blog. Although I didn't immediately recognize the name, when they said that this was their second location and gave the address of the original, it didn't take me long to put it together.

I was happy about this development, because as I said, I really liked the Shaar's building and thought it deserved to be something nicer than a smoke-filled beer joint with bad hot dogs. I am happy to report that while it is a bit smoke-filled , the smoke is from the deep-fryer and not cigarette smoking bar patrons, its hot dogs are much, much improved from its Shaar's days.

I didn't have to wait long for my hot dogs, but while I did, I poked around a little and was pleased that they had mostly left the charming interior intact, including the very cool old wooden phone booth in the back. The pool table is gone, but in its stead is a door with the tell-tale sign that says "Over 21" and cautions that the door must be kept closed. Bammy's, like many other HDJs these days, supplements its income with a backroom casino. Or maybe more correctly, it uses its hot dogs as a front for the casino. I don't care, as long as the hot dogs are good, and these are.

Let's start with the bun: They have a bun steamer - say no more. A sure sign of a serious hot dog joint. The result is near perfection: heavenly soft and nicely warm buns in which to build a tasty hot dog.

And build it they do: A small-caliber weenie leaves room for a good helping of tasty chili: tangy and meaty. The slaw was nearly perfectly paired with the chili, nicely sweet and finely chopped. After I had already ordered I noticed that they offered a spicy chili; I'll try that next time, because there will definitely be a next time.

4 1/2 Weenies. Delicious.

J's Grocery steward of WV Dogs in Mercer, defends border county from Old Dominion dogs.

   

It's the Citgo station across W.Va. 10 from the
Kegley Post Office.

 It was an easy choice for me to review one of my favorite hot-dog joints, J's Grocery in Kegley, Mercer County.  It is the Citgo station/grocery store/hot-dog joint across W.Va. Route 10 from the Kegley Post Office and is about 10 minutes north of Princeton and 7/10 of a mile south of the U.S. 19 and route 10 split.
     At the split, you'll see the site of what is reportedly one of the most haunted sites in North America. It was a Native American burial ground, the site of a massacre of an 18th Century settler family (including one child who was taken away and burned at the stake) and the Lake Shawnee amusement park, which has its own grim stories. The old Ferris wheel is still there and looks very, very creepy.

This very creepy old Ferris wheel -
on the site of a Native American burial
 ground and a 1700s massacre - can
be seen nearby.

  Last summer, I was driving by and stopped in after seeing the "homemade hot dogs" sign outside. I asked my hostess/dog preparer/co-owner of the joint, Marie Burrell, "are your hot dogs any good?" If looks could kill, her look would have killed.
     "We take our hot dogs very seriously," she said.
     These dogs take several minutes to prepare, so I typically call ahead as I leave Princeton. My dogs are thereby ready about three minutes after I arrive. On review day, I called ahead and was told "our cook (Marie) has stepped out" and no hot dogs could be made.
     Imagine my joyous surprise when a few minutes later - thanks to caller ID, I presume - I was called back and told that Marie had returned and my dog could now be prepared. Marie, you see, is the only one with authority to create hot dogs at J's.
     When I arrived, she was still preparing my dog. I asked what constituted an "everything" hot dog at J's. Her answer could have easily been boilerplate material lifted from any West Virginia Hot Dogs press release:

One of the best dogs I have ever consumed.

     "Slaw, chili, mustard and onions," she said. "Most people around here want ketchup, mustard, but a hot dog with everything must have slaw. 'Everything' must be slaw, chili, mustard and onions because that's what a West Virginia hot dog is. Nothing else."      
     As I shuddered at the thought of hot dogs with ketchup, mustard and relish actually being ordered for human - not just animal - consumption, I was pleased to hear tales of how J's Grocery has worked to educate an uniformed public of locals - whose palates have been corrupted by Old Dominion dogs smuggled across our unsecured southern border - and travelers alike about the virtues of the true West Virginia dog.
    On my previous visits, the slaws were excellent, but had been a little less moist than other slaws I've come across and I mentioned this as she prepared my order. She said the slaw moisture content was intentional - to keep the bun from getting too soggy. I asked her what was in her slaw. She swore she would never tell and asked me about my preferences concerning slaw moisture.
     I took this dog (which cost $2.50 with tax) out to my truck for private review. When I opened the wrapper of this dog, which was utilitarian in packaging, but otherwise genteel in appearance, I was shocked. Dumbfounded. Flabbergasted. Flutterated. The slaw had been prepared in a small batch specifically for my dog (I was the first to order slaw that day) and she had slightly and perfectly adjusted the moisture content of it based on my answer.
     The slaw had a divine creaminess that not only mixed well with the chili, but brought forth many complicated flavors at once. I could taste the nuances of the cabbage, perfectly balanced with the mayo and other slaw ingredients.  If there is a special heaven for mountaineers, this is the slaw the angels serve there. In the chili, I could not only taste the spices, but the meat as well. Nothing, I repeat, nothing was too far forward in this perfectly-balanced mix of flavors.
     The bun was lightly grilled. The result was the outside was a little crispy, while the inside retained its softness. This had an added anti-soggy-bun effect. The wiener was a a quality dog and grilled, not boiled. I could find no fault in this dog. It may have been the perfect dog - and perhaps the fulfillment of some hot-dog-shaman's ancient prophecy.
I give it five weenies. And then some.

H.C.

We checked out some upper Greenbrier Valley dogs at Dorie's.

      I've heard quite a bit of hype about the dogs at Rayetta's Lunchbox in downtown Marlinton, but I have never, ever been able to catch Rayetta's open - that hot-dog joint closes at three or some such ungodly hour.
   I was, however, quite curious about what the dogs would be like in Pocahontas County. In Greenbrier County and many of the counties stacked along our southern and southeastern border with Virginia, the slaws are primary vinegar-based and while they may not be my favorite slaw, they illustrate the cultural diversity of our below-slaw-line counties.
     The source who told me about Rayetta's did not know if Dorie's even had hot dogs. I myself have eaten at Dorie's numerous times. I usually have an order of hamburger, fries and fried pickles. The fried pickles are very good, a little spicy and offered with ranch dressing.
    Turns out, they do have dogs. I asked what constituted everything and my host told me "slaw, chili, onion, mustard and relish." I ordered two true West Virginia dogs, featuring everything she said, minus relish - to go.
    It did take some time for my dogs to be prepared. Enough time passed for me to wash my hands thoroughly and read a 35-column-inch story (35 inches is a very long story) a complementary issue of The Pocahontas Times about a local resident, Dabney Kisner,  recalling his days in World World II. The former airman was shot down over German-occupied Belgium. He fell in with the Belgian resistance, evaded German pursuers for months and when finally reunited with his countrymen, he said the Germans "couldn't catch this old hillbilly."You can read that story here.
    Almost as soon as I had finished reading about Kisner, my dogs arrived. They were genteel dogs, packed in crush-resistant Styrofoam containers. I took them to my truck, where I could consume and review privately and chase them down with Pocahontas County spring water, drawn only an hour earlier from a spring on Cranberry Mountain.
   Once I opened the container on my first dog, it was obvious why my dog had taken several minutes to prepare. The onions had obviously been chopped to order and it also appeared that the slaw - also hand chopped - had been made in a small batch just for my dogs. The wiener had been grilled and the slaw was delectably creamy. Steamed bun. The slaw, mustard, and chili offered a good mix of sweet, sour as a perfect dog should be.
     This may have had potential to be one of the best dogs I have ever eaten. However, the onion, which as I mentioned earlier was freshly chopped by hand, was overpowering. The onion pieces were very large and the onion pungency overpowered each mouthful. This could have been a four-wiener-rated dog, but it's hard to tell. It was hard to taste beneath that overpowering onion. It would be vastly improved with more finely-chopped onions. Maybe I just showed up on "large-onion-piece day." As is, it gets a three-wienie rating.

H.C.

Review: Montgomery Dairy Queen

I was very excited about checking out Dogs on the Run, a newer hot-dog joint in London, W.Va., whose dogs I had yet to try. However, after making the long journey to London, I discovered, dejectedly, that Dogs on the Run was inexplicably closed for the day (we certainly hope everyone on the Dogs on the Run staff is OK).
    As a samurai's sword could not be returned to its sheath ere it had seen battle, thus I could not, once my hot-dog quest had begun, return without quenching my insatiable hunger for a West Virginia dog. Therefore, I made tracks for the nearest dog joint I knew of – the Montgomery Dairy Queen.
    I can honestly say that I have had very few dogs at Dairy Queen and it had been so long that I couldn't remember what they tasted like. A dog with everything, my host told me, had the correct combination – slaw, chili, mustard and onions.
    There was a long line and as I understood it, some staffing issue that left the joint's crew shorthanded. They handled the situation calmly and professionally. There was no evidence that my dog had been hurried in its preparation.
    The dog, while genteel in appearance, automatically raised suspicion with its New England bun. I don't mind a New England

bun so much if it has been grilled with generous amounts of butter and is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. This bun had been grilled, but with little butter. It was not crispy - or good.
    I was quite pleased to see that the slaw was a properly-appearing creamy slaw. The problem is I cannot tell you what the slaw tasted like. That chili was so overpowering, I only knew I was consuming slaw by the soft crunch of the cabbage. The wiener may have been grilled, but who knows? Nothing but the chili could be tasted. In fact, it appears that the slaw only functioned as a sarcophagus to lock in the vapors of that pungent, noxious, virulent, rot-gut chili. This dog should be instead be called the U234 dog. The half-life of Uranium 234 is about 25,000 years – approximately how long this toxic chili churns in the stomach. If ever a dog deserved a one-weenie rating, it's this one.

H.C.

Summersville HDJ Review - Fat Eddie's at the Dam

It took us 6 years to get to Fat Eddie's. After hundreds of emails claiming that this was the best place to get hot dogs in Summersville (or the whole state, according to some) our curiosity got the better of us and we made the trip. The timing was made more difficult by the fact that Fat Eddie's is only open three seasons, but one lovely summer evening we finally made it.

We weren't alone. There were dozens of people lined up in the parking lot of this carry-out waiting for their ice cream, french fries or hot dogs (or all three) so it took us quite a while to get our order in and then a while longer to get our hot dogs.

Worth it.

Sometimes you just know as soon as you lift a hot dog and feel the softness and the heft that it is going to be great, and Eddie's greatness is evident in this way. The chili has a nice little spice, the slaw is nearly perfect in texture and taste and the weenie and bun were fabulous. Every part of this hot dog is perfect.

5 Weenies without even thinking about it. My only wish is that they did it all year round, but it does give a Weenie Wonk something to look forward to in the long winter months.

New Lewisville Area HDJ Review - Eipuri Sushi

When Master Sushi Chef Eipuri Rufuru decided to open a sushi restaurant in a small West Virginia town like Lewisville, he knew that he would have to offer a few specialty rolls in order to please his customers. Like most Americanized sushi joints, Eipuri offers Philadelphia Rolls and California Rolls,  but recently he has developed some special maki rolls made from favorite West Virginian delicacies such as Ramps and Brook Trout. But it is his most recent creation that has all of Lewiston talking and that attracted the attention of our Weenie Wonks.  

We at WVHotDogs.com first heard about Eipuri's new creation through social media, as people began Tweeting comments about the sushi and using the #wvhotdogs hashtag. At first we though it was simply a roll that looked like a hot dog, but then we found out through a post on Facebook that this roll has inside all of the goodness of chili, slaw, mustard and onions rolled up around an all-beef weenie. Eipuri calls the roll "Hottogoggu." We couldn't wait to try it.

Chef Eipuri's special "Hottogoggu" rolls
surrounded by more traditional sushi items.

Watching Chef Eipuri roll this work of art was a treat - and he graciously afforded us a seat beside his work area and explained the process to us in great detail. With the Nori (seaweed) laid out, he first spread a dollop of creamy slaw evenly over its surface. Then he poured a thin but meaty chili over it and allowed it run off the side. Next, he fanned the chili to cool it down (he said it would make it easier to roll) and once it was properly cool, he carefully placed finely chopped onions and one small line of yellow mustard down the middle. The previously grilled weenie was laid precisely on the line of mustard and then he carefully rolled the whole thing up tightly. Once the roll was firm, he rolled it through the vinegared rice which clung beautifully to the Nori. After it had rested a moment, he took out his razor-sharp knife and sliced in into six perfect pieces of sushi. It was a work of art!

As much of a treat as it was watching it being made, tasting it was even more so; an absolute joy! I honestly don't know how I can ever have another roll of any kind of sushi without it suffering by comparison with this masterpiece. The chili was so potent, that even the small amount in the roll stood up and forced itself to be noticed. The slaw was luscious and the weenie was perfect. Overall this non-standard WV Hot Dog creation gets a 4.5 Weenie rating.

As I ate the first roll and ordered another, I reflected on the amazing clash of cultures that this dish represents. It gave me hope for the future of the world. Of course, I still have no hope for Marion County, because its anti-slaw factions would not allow this kind of cultural experiment to happen there. Perhaps they can convince some local sushi chef to come up with a Pepperoni Roll Roll.

If you find yourself in Lewisville and wish to try Eipuri Sushi for yourself, please call ahead and make sure they are grilling weenies, because they don't do it every day, but we hear that the first day of April is always a good day to go.

Where has the year gone?

In case you are wondering, dear readers, where we've been, suffice it to say that our Weenie Wonks have had a tumultuous year!

• Chris James, head of our Huntington bureau, was last seen walking into a Weight Watchers location mumbling about the number of points in a quart of KFC coleslaw. We theorize that he's been forbidden to eat hot dogs for a time, but he continues to be active in Hot Dog Culture advocacy efforts on Twitter (see @ASourAppleTree).
• Big Daddy, our North Central WV Wonk, hasn't posted an HDJ review in so long that we fear that he has been brainwashed my the militant anti-slaw Marion County Honor Guard, a group whose very existence has not been proven but whose fingerprints can be seen on various Facebook comments that disparage the good folks of West Virginia who understand the value of slaw on their hot dogs. 
• Stanton has been busy fighting off the wintertime Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) and looking for a Charleston Area HDJ that uses bottled water in its hot dog preparation. 

Excuses aside, it's been a year since we posted a review. We promise that a new review is coming soon!

The World Wakes Up

In the United States, the true authority on hot dogs is the National Hot Dog and Sausage Council. Like most associations these folks have to be diplomatic when it comes to judging the merits of its constituency and can't really say what they believe if it show favoritism toward any one individual constituent. But once in a while, the truth refuses to stay in the shadows. Such is the case with their recent March Madness Hot Dog and Sausage Tournament on Facebook, where the WVHD vanquished all comers.

All hail the victors! West Virginia Hot Dogs reign supreme!

Morgantown HDJ Review - The Bear Cave

Once in a while I am still surprised to find a HDJ that is really old school. Usually that means that they have a 1950s era Sunbeam bun steamer or make their slaw in an antique Norge mixer, but when I was recently introduced to this hidden away HDJ on Peacock Avenue, I was truly taken aback.

A relic from the past, The Bear Cave makes no bones about being a men-only establishment.

And they have great hot dogs.

My visit to The Bear Cave was facilitated by an acquaintance who is a regular there, which is really the only way that anyone ever gets in. The cleverly hidden doorway on the lower level of the building and the complete lack of any signage makes accidental discovery almost impossible, and the seedy look of the neighborhood makes it unlikely that people are going to be just walking by. It doesn't get much better immediately inside the door - a dimly lit hallway that leads to the reception area further reinforces the feeling that this is not someplace you want to be nosing around. It is only after you turn the corner at the end of this hallway and come face to face with the large stuffed bear that mans the maitre d' station that you feel that this is a place that humans frequent.

The interior is only marginally less dimly lit than the entrance corridor, but there was enough light to see that the decor looked like it came from a Mad Men set with burgundy leather, red brick and dark oak the only perceptible colors. The lovely smell of hot dog chili hung in the air and it reminded me of what I had come for.

I asked my host about ordering up some hot dogs and he summoned an older man who had been talking to another group of older men nearby. He introduced the man as "George" and said he was one of the owners. I asked George what he considered "everything" on a hot dog and was pleased to find out that slaw was listed as a standard topping. I ordered two and George immediately left toward what I can only assume was the kitchen door.

While I was waiting on my hot dogs to return I queried my host on the history of The Bear Cave but either he didn't know much or he was sworn to secrecy because I found out nothing. I asked him what would happen if a woman came in and he just said "it'll never happen" and dismissed my further questions. There was so much that I wanted to know, but my hot dogs came back before I could ask any more questions. They looked and smelled so good that I couldn't resist turning my attention to them.

When I took out my camera to take a photo of the hot dogs for this post, my host quickly told me that pictures were not allowed (I guess he hadn't noticed that I had snapped one of the bear on the way in), so you'll have to take my word that these hot dogs were a thing of beauty. The buns were cloud-like in their softness and the chili was a deep brownish red. The slaw looked perfectly prepared and the onions were so finely chopped that they nearly disappeared into the texture of the slaw.

And they tasted even better than they looked! Heavenly. A Five Weenie classic if ever one existed. The chili was spicy and the slaw was cool and sweet - they were joined together in a synergistic marriage of pure deliciousness. The soft bun cradled all of this goodness and made everything even better because of its freshness. I looked at my host and then at George who was still standing by, smiling in expectation. I think I had a tear in my eye because I had found what was quite possibly The One True Dog. Rapture! Delight!

For a long time I couldn't speak, I could only enjoy the magnificent taste. When the words finally came to me, I thanked George for the privilege of tasting it. I thanked my host for the opportunity to experience The Bear Cave, a place that until that morning I had never even heard of. I excitedly  told them both that I couldn't wait to write the review and tell all of our readers about it.

And that's when they looked at each other and their smiles turned into frowns. My host said to me, "No, you can never write about this."

"Never," reinforced George.

"But, this to too wonderful!", I said. "I can't possibly be expected keep this quiet? This is the best hot dog I have ever had!"

George narrowed his gaze and said "Never, capice?" His meaning was very clear. I capiced.

After a long pause, I agreed to never write the review. I ate the rest of my hot dogs with a mixture of joy and sadness. Joy for the sheer pleasure of the taste and textures of these hot dogs, and sadness because I knew that I could never tell my readers about them.

It was months later, though, that I remembered that I write this blog under a well-protected pseudonym and that my host and George knew me only by my pen name. I decided to throw caution to the wind and publish this review.

Besides, with all of the kumbaya going on lately in this country, with all of the equal rights court decisions and all of the women empowerment books being published, I thought to myself, "how can I just stand by and not say anything about this discriminatory hot dog joint? How is it OK for me to have this information - that what is perhaps The One True Dog exists and it is being purposely withheld from 50% of our population because of their sex?" I decided that I can't be complicit any more and I have to speak out.

I challenge the women of Morgantown, go down to Peacock Avenue and find this place and just march in and order a hot dog. This is your time to Lean In!

I just hope I don't get leaned on for writing about it.

Oh, and one more thing: Happy April Fools Day.

Pepperoni Roll Power Play

Today a bill was introduced in the West Virginia House of Delegates to make the Pepperoni Roll the official state food of West Virginia. This has caught us here at WVHotDogs.com completely by surprise and our operatives have been scrambling all afternoon to launch a counter-offensive in the war for Mountain State gastro-domination. Take this as a quick legislative alert and call to action for readers who know that only a West Virginia Hot Dog is the true State food, official or otherwise. Get on the phone to your elected official and make your voice be heard!

Here is the breakdown on the sponsors of the bill:

First, you have the predictable North-Central Dem delegation of Caputo (D Marion), Iaquinta (D Harrison),  Miley (D Harrison), Manchin (D Marion) with a token Republican Smith of Preston County. 

From the Free State of McDowell, there is Delegate Cliff Moore a wild card who loves to have his name on a bill, and who now has his name on this one. Not a big deal - as we documented last year, it is hard to find a decent hot dog in McDowell County. Pepperoni rolls probably survive the treacherous trip to McDowell County better than do hot dog buns anyway. All in all, Moore's sponsorship is no surprise.

The lead sponsor, though, is terribly surprising: A Republican from Boone County, Joshua Nelson has no business getting involved in this issue. Boone Countians, let him hear about it. Hot dogs with chili and slaw rule that land, not pepperoni rolls!

Troy Andes from Putnam County is in a no-win situation since he represents the only county in the state that doesn't have a stance on whether they like their hot dogs with "chili" or "sauce." It is this kind of confusion that makes politicians do irresponsible things.

But the biggest disappointment is the from the Mingo and Logan Democratic delegation. Ted Tomblin from Logan and Delegates Marcum and White from Mingo have really dropped themselves in a big ol' pot of hot water with their sponsorship of this flawed bill. Why, Logan is the home of Morrison's Drive Inn, quite likely the best damn hot dog joint in the state - as well as having at least three other Five Weenie HDJs in the county. And we are certain that Big Daddy Buck Harless - a noted Hot Dog  fan - is not going to be happy about Marcum and White going off the reservation like this. There's gonna be some serious ramifications in Mingo County in the coming days. 

So WVHD fans, let them have it! You can find their contact information here. Phone or email - let your voice be heard!

St. Albans HDJ Review - Sammy's Chili Dogs

After a long hiatus, partially because of holidays and partially to give our triglycerides a chance to return to tolerable levels, our Weenie Wonks are back on the job just in time to catch a brand-spanking new HDJ in their first week of business. And while sometimes a new restaurant takes a while to get their sea legs and start putting out a quality product, we found out that this is not the case with Sammy's Chili Dogs.

Sitting on the bank of the Coal River backwater on West Main Street, this HDJ just opened this past week and is already causing a splash. [Update: Now located at 54 MacCorkle Avenue in St. Albans]We first heard of it through a Facebook Fan and were eager to check it out since it's been so long since a new HDJ opened in these parts. It didn't take long to find Sammy's since it is right at the intersection of West Main and Coal River Road and has a flashing red traffic light that stops all cars right in from of its door.

First thing you notice - if you are an experienced Weenie Wonk - is that Sammy's sign looks very much like another area HDJ whose name also is a derivative of the name "Samuel." We'll just have to wait and see if somebody's lawyer notices. [Update: Somebody's lawyer must have noticed because Sammy's has changed its name to "Bammy's, and their sign is different.]

The second thing you notice is that Sammy's keeps insane hours for a HDJ: Open from 9:00 AM until 3:00 AM daily and then from 1:00PM until 2:00AM on Sundays.

Inside, Sammy's is clean as you would expect a week-old restaurant to be, but it is also tastefully decorated and homey with comfortable seating for probably 20 diners and a few more at the counter. The staff is friendly and the service is quick.

As for toppings, Sammy's doesn't seem to have a standard set of toppings, an unfortunate trait which is usually an indicator of lower quality hot dogs. "Everything" is not well defined and can include anything from the proper WVHD toppings of mustard, chili (regular or spicy), slaw and onions to ketchup, pickle relish and jalapenos. I ordered mine of course with mustard, onions, slaw and chose the spicy chili.

My hot dog came out with some rather large chunks of onions sitting on it, but otherwise looked good. The spicy chili had a lot more going on that just spice and was perfectly balanced by excellent slaw; creamy and sweet and applied in perfect proportion. The bun was soft and had obviously been steamed fresh. The weenie was all-beef and of the large-caliber variety. This hot dog has been thought through by someone who loves hot dogs and was very well executed.  Very good and very satisfying.

The size of the onions makes it necessary to deduct one-half point, but Sammy's gets an enthusiastic 4 1/2 Weenies and our unabashed recommendation as the best HDJ in St. Albans. A little out of the way (especially with the closing of the Nitro bridge) but well worth it.

Charleston West Side HDJ Death Match Round 4 - The Smokehouse vs. The Grill

Let's wrap this up, shall we?

After struggling to find HDJs on Charleston's West Side, I have given up trying to find lesser known contenders and just moving to the final, some might say, marquee pairing The Smokehouse vs. The Grill.

Since it's been so long since we reviewed The Grill, here is some background:


The Grill, on Washington Street just west of the Interstate, is one of Charleston's most unique eateries. It is delightfully understated (even that might be an understatement!) decor-wise but the food is great and the service is like family. The menu is eclectic and regulars know what they are having before they walk through the doors. This week's and next week's specials can be read about in advance on the dry erase menu board behind the counter. I know people that plan their weeks around the specials, which it seems are the same 12 items recycled over and over again. I can personally attest that most of the specials are very good, and anecdotally that the rest of them are good as well.

In the back room you will often see some of the most influential politicos in Charleston having lunch together. Men in expensive business suits sit in old wobbly booths that looked like they were there before the building had a roof. The four TV's tuned to sports and news channels compete for wavelengths in the audible spectrum above the din of the diners. The walls are covered with 1970's wood paneling, Pepsi signs and the autographed pictures of celebrities both major and minor. 


Now that description of The Grill was written in 2006 for our first review of the place. Every word of it still fits. It is as if time marches on and only The Grill remains unchanged.

But fortunately, the hot dogs have changed.

We've received a lot of email and Facebook comments from fans of The Grill who love their hot dogs. I was perplexed by this because I never found them to be very good, but while I wasn't paying attention they improved. The slaw, while still not very finely chopped, is now very creamy and delicious. The formerly stale buns are now nicely fresh and soft (made even softer by the foil wrapping on "to go" orders). The chili is still good. The onions could stand some more chopping, but overall I have no complaints about The Grill's offering. But is it good enough to dethrone The Smokehouse?

It really comes down to one thing, and that is which restaurant cares the most about hot dogs? The Grill's Utilitarian Dog was thrown together (I watched from the counter) in almost haphazard fashion. There was very little effort given to ensuring a consistent quantity of toppings from one hot dog to the next and consequently one of my hot dogs had an enormous amount of mustard and very little slaw compared to the other. The Smokehouse's Genteel Dog seems to be extremely carefully assembled and is therefore remarkably consistent. This alone would not be enough to crown one the winner over the other, though.

No, where the real difference lies in these two hot dogs is the intention revealed in the preparation of the weenie - The Grill's weenie had been soaking in a hot water bath while The Smokehouse heats their high quality weenie on a grill and it therefore retains a lot of its flavor.

So by the narrowest of margins, The Smokehouse wins the West Side HDJ Death Match and claims the title of The West Side's  Best Hot Dog 2012.

Congratulations Smokehouse!

Charleston West Side HDJ Death Match Round 3 - The Smokehouse vs. Sistah's Rib Shack

Unfortunately this round is going to be a walkover, since I made 5 visits to Sistah's Rib Shack at lunch time and twice at dinner time and never once found them open. Folks, it doesn't matter how good you think your food is, you have to be open when you say you're going to be open!

The Smokehouse moves on!

Charleston West Side HDJ Death Match Round 2 - The Smokehouse vs. Sam's Hot Dog Stand

We reviewed Sam's Hot Dog Stand's West Side location on its very first day of business in 2008. You can read that review here. Not much has changed, except the Weenieistas seemed a little more sure of themselves now and they no longer deliver your hot dog in a coffin, but wrapped nicely in wax paper. 

But as for the quality of the hot dog, nothing has changed. As I re-read the four year old review, it seems as if I could have written it word for word about today's visit: good chili (get the spicy), not such good slaw, small caliber weenie, cold crusty buns. You still have to be careful about ordering "everything" unless you want relish, ketchup and mayo on your hot dog, but this is not a bad Utilitarian Dog. 

Unfortunately for Sam's, though, "not bad" is not nearly good enough to knock off the really great hot dogs from The Smokehouse. It's going to take a really good HDJ who can bring their "A" game to dethrone the reigning champ. 

 

Next to try to defeat The Smokehouse will either be Sista's Rib Shack (if we can catch them open) or Loretta's Past Time. Keep an eye on this space.